Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue
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Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue



The only reason these wires get hot enough to melt is people trying to use the alternator or generator to charge a dead battery. The wiring wasn't designed to handle constant high power load. If it was, the wires would be as big as battery cables. 
Don




Hi guys,
Just an update
So the red and black wires had overheated and fused together from the starter relay to the amo guage. The 2 wires were totally removed, also finding old damage in the sane place. New wires were added removing the spade connectors there running through the bulkhead connector to the amp guage. Car noe starts amd runs alot better so this had been an issue affecting it for a while.  Thanks all for the help,
Cheers
Mike


On Tue, Nov 19, 2024, 12:07 PM Michael Van der veen <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Thanks Dan , Interesting I'll keep that inboard, thankfully this is a stripper model,
Cheers Mike


On Tue, Nov 19, 2024, 12:02 PM <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Insufficient conductor is not unique to Mother Mopar. In the midyear Corvette world we have what is called "red wire syndrome" in which the entire car feed for everything excerpting the horn runs through a bulkhead connector that fails leaving a completely dead automobile. Except of course the horn which at least tells you what problem you have.

 

The C body Imperial guys discuss this too and they say to strap a heavy wire from the alternator stud to the battery via starter relay. I did this on my 68 New Yorker. That car, by the way has its HVAC and exterior lighting circuit bypassed from the fuse block to replace burned out lugs and surrounding plastic - woefully undersized and melted factory conductors. 

 

Seems when Chrysler went to the mandated side marker lamps for 68 it figured the existing wiring could handle it. 

 

Danny Plotkin

-----Original Message-----
From: "Michael Van der veen" <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 18, 2024 5:54pm
To: "Don Cole" <mr300k@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: "Chrysler list server" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} 300k starting issue

Thanks to everyone for the invaluable information.  It will help alot. I've booked the car in to have a fix done on the alternator wiring at the bulkhead connector.  Apparently our holden cars here had a similar set up that is equally trouble some. Cheers all and thanks again
Mike in Australia


On Tue, Nov 19, 2024, 4:38 AM Don Cole <mr300k@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Mike,
This happened on my Ram-K after ours of searching I found that the wire coming from the alternator to the AMP meter was loose. Very simple and easy. 
Hope that solves your problem.
Don Cole
On Sunday, November 17, 2024, 11:16:54 PM EST, Michael Van der veen <michaelvanderveen8@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi all,
I've been test driving the silver turquoise 300k around and trying to iron out some running issues. So after driving around for a couple of hrs it cut out and I couldn't start it via the key. I know there can be issues with the bulkhead connector, there is no power to the ignition switch and no console light comes on when you open the door.  No fuses are blown and you can start the car by bridging the terminals on the starter relay and connecting the coil to the battery. When you do this the car will run and drive and lights in the console work when you open the door.  The ignition switch still won't work. The car has 42k miles on it and alot of electrical parts have been replaced.  Does anyone have any ideas besides the bulkhead connector?  
Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
Cheers,
Mike approaching summer heat, in Australia 
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