--- RaDadNY@xxxxxxx wrote:
> What should I do to make sure I preserve my 354 Hemi???
> And keep it from
> getting wrecked getting it started after all this time?
Others will have other ideas, (please speak up) but my
method is:
remove the spark plugs, disconnecting the distributor cap
from the coil (remember to reconnect when reassembling.
Note spark plug wire order so that you can reassemble
correctly or you will get really frustrated. Consider new
cap,plugs, rotor, points and wires. I am superstitious
about points and would leave the old ones in because I know
that they're already right, and I like to lower variables.
That is a good thing to do after the thing cranks and
fires, in my opinion.
Spray a very light penetrating oil into the spark plug
holes several times over an hour, coating everything inside
thouroughly. Remember that the pistons' slant will return
lubricant to the spark plug side, so aim high to hit the
back wall especially well.
Let it sit for a few hours
Change the oil and filter, making certain to drop some new
oil into the new filter, but not so much that it will pour
out in big globs when you screw the new filter onto the
block.
check the transmission to see that it has at least some
fluid in it. Add if in doubt but don't overfill - its
meant to be checked when running and at pressure. Anything
showing on the dipstick should be a good sign. Make
certain to recheck before driving. Beware that the rear
seal on the trans may really desperately want to be
replaced, and could let go once you start driving, toasting
your trans in the process of spitting all of your fluid
out. Consider replacing it once you get past starting the
car up.
Get a new battery.
Get a new fuel filter and install it
Get a socket wrench that fits the end of the crank.
get a long breaker bar for the socket wrench.
try to turn the engine over.
If it moves, be very gentle, spraying more lubricant in as
you go. I normally switch to marvel mystery oil once the
thing moves so much as an inch, as it is much thicker and
will cling better. Some people pour a quarter cup of oil
down the carb opening before starting with the plugs out,
but this can drop oil down your exhaust and make for a big
stink once you get things running and hot. I don't
subscribe to this.
try to get the engine free, knowing that forcing it can
break rings that might be frozen into their cylinders
(that's what the penetrating oil was for). Don't be
bashful about gently rocking the bar rather than going only
one way.
Once you get the engine free, use the starter motor to turn
it over for a little while to get the oil pressure up. All
oil has presumably drained off of the surfaces that it is
meant to protect.
Reinstall spark plugs, wires, and wire from the coil and
then prime the carb with a splish of fuel.
Have your wife stand right next to the exhaust pipe in back
if she's got a sense of humor. Keep her away if not.
Crank the engine. If it keeps running, your carb, lines,
pump, and tank might not be carmelized with gunk. I would
add carb cleaner to anything that you have in the gas tank,
and you would do well to drain any old gas and replace if
you didn't proprely empty the tank and run the car dry or
put STA-BIL fuel preservative into the gas tank when it was
parked.
Keep revs low and the car out of gear once started and
allow to warm up, come to full pressure/temp, and just get
used to working again. Watch the other things like water
temp and look for leaking or swelling hoses. Plan to redo
all soft parts right off if you like driving over riding.
I guarantee at least one belt or hose to fail when you are
just far enough away to make a tow expensive.
Be prepared to change the oil again soon to remove any junk
that broke free in the process. Dont let this slide. Do
it once you feel like doing the next thing after the engine
revival process.
Good luck, Charlie Brown!
=====
Kenyon Wills
6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car
73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious
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