OK...fast forward...I determined that the OEM switch is garbage and the eBay seller won't refund my $ since it was "installed" (I guess around my tumbler & key?) Whatever.--So I bought a switch from Auto Zone. It ohm's out across the IGN1 and batt terminals, and I've confirmed I have 12v to the IGN1 terminal with the key on. Car starts but dies when the key is turned to Run. Bought another one thinking something is wrong with switch #1. Nope...same thing. But one thing I DID discover was that after putting my original switch back in, and then jiggling it, the car started and ran until I bumped the key. I've not been able to do that with the AutoZone switches.Any way...what the %$#$ gives? What's the %$#@ing problem? Every aftermarket switch can't be bad! Plug looks good and uncoorroded. I have no %$#@ing idea what's %$#@ing wrong! Can anyone offer some enlightened suggestions before I start bashing $#!t in my garage with a %$#@ing hammer?! I just want to enjoy my car!!!
Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
14 Avenger R/T, 15 Durango R/T, 21 Model T Depot HackOn Tue, May 1, 2018 at 9:14 AM, Jimmy Peavy <peaver63@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Sounds like you have a 66 up tumbler, maybe the old switch was later than a 65?
On 4/30/18, [email protected]rg
<62-65-mail-list-club@ornocar.org > wrote:
> What's the Mopar NOS OEM switch part number?
>
> Thanks,
> Gary H.
>
>> -------Original Message-------
>
>> So I got to switch out and it was way easier than I thought.
>>
>> The switch I bought is a Mopar NOS OEM switch with the factory part
>> number I found in my dealer parts book. The old one I pulled out is
>> not Mopar, but an older replacement as it says made in USA on it.
>>
>> First thing I noticed was that the new Switch has an extra prongs on
>> the back for ground. Second thing is when I insert the tumbler into
>> the new switch, it won't turn at all. I'm really confused.
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>
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