Re: Starting My 392 Poly Stroker
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Re: Starting My 392 Poly Stroker



I haven't completely decided on cam profile yet but bigger is better as far as I'm concerned!

Found some interesting info on bearings though I pulled from an chubbie forum...

"I was researching about engine bearings and found a lot of talk but no real facts, so I called Mahle and they directed me to this site,

Just thought I would share the site, it takes a while to pass a course but well worth the reading

http://www.mahlecleviteelearning.com

There is alot of talk about the H and the P, but does anyone really know the true difference

Did you know there is a

H
P
AS
K
V

Take the Clevite Learning School http://www.mahlecleviteelearning.com

quick break out

P standard passenger car
H High Performance
AS OEM Quality Replacement
V Vandervell - Top Fuel and Funny Car
K Endurance High Performance"


Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3



On Tue, Dec 18, 2012 at 12:35 PM, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:
Bill,
 
Good pricing Bill!  The “H”series bearings are hardened rod bearings and I would also recommend them for your Stroker application.  The 4” crank puts a lot of stress on the rods and main caps so hardened rod bearings are good insurance.  A set of full-groove mains for your crank w/high volume oil pump is also recommended. 
 
The shop will have to clearance the rods to the block with a four inch stroke but the Poly requires only minor clearance and shop time should be no more than one hour.
 
What cam profile will you be running?  A [email protected]” duration HYD. is a very good profile for the Stroker, or the [email protected]” Solid Cam for most applications – this will yield approx. 400-420HP and 440-450ft. lbs. of Torque at low RPM levels (3400 & 5300 respectively) and produce extremely high & flat average numbers.
 
Gary Pavlovich
 
From: Bill M
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2012 5:38 AM
Subject: Starting My 392 Poly Stroker
 
Well, I'm dropping off my block to begin the 392 poly Stroker project on Wednesday. Found a local machine shop with a good reputation that's reasonable priced. Hot tank, magnaflux boring & honing will cost me ~$260, clearancing the block to my rotating assembly $80-120, Install cam bearings $60, assemble the short block $250. so all work to get the short block in shape will be ~$630...not too bad I guess.

He suggested getting "H" series bearings...what's the significance of these series bearings? He was talking about clearance for crank radius or something but there was alot of noise in the background.

Bill M
65 Coronet 500 'vert http://goo.gl/6xUS1
73 Dart Sport, 05 Ram 2500 CTD, 4WD, QC, LB, Laramie
21 Model T Depot Hack, 06 Mazda 3

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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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Please address private email -- email of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, email your parts/car transactions and negotiations, as well as other personal messages, only to the intended recipient. Do not just press "reply" and send your email to everyone using the general '62-'65 Clubhouse public email address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine-tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
 
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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