I would agree with Dodger that the 360 can build easy HP as the recipes are numerous and you have any shop that can do the build. However, you need to determine what your real goals and intentions for your car is. Reading your e-mail lets me know it is an “original” car so do you want to have the original look with a wallop packed under the hood – ala, sleeper? How much HP do you want vs. what you really need to lose traction on the street with Drag Radials?
We can only give you our opinions as to what we would do but we know what kind of car we want to build.
Saying that, I will give you my opinion and best guess as to what you are looking for in your build; pump gas engine with enough HP and torque to smoke the tires at will but not unmanageable street manners – it must start easily, not require extensive tuning to maintain driving pleasure, not require more than 3500rpm stall convertor and a 3.91 rear gear...a nice looking, hard running, sleeper car, with that nostalgic 1963MOPAR look & Hot Rod stance (perhaps aftermarket rims and 235/.60-14 or 15 Drag Radials; Hoosier/BFG/MT) enough mods to stay within your budget w/o compromising your “performance.” Need to assess your true street to strip driving ratio as well.
I would choose the 318 Poly in Hot Street modified form or a 360 Stroker Poly.
Reasons:
No expense and hassle of buying a 360 core engine and changing the motor mounts and swapping to an externally balanced convertor for the externally balanced 360 engine.
The 360 is ubiquitous (everywhere/common) and doesn’t look “right/correct/or impressive at all” in the engine bay of a 1963 Plymouth” and will maintain or increase the value and or desirability of your car.
It will also “personalize” your car...think about what that means to you.
The 318 Poly is impressive looking (wider than a 440) and appears correct/nostalgic/generates more attention & questions than a HEMI in your engine bay...that really is worth something at cruise nights...
“ “ “ will not require any chassis modifications other than to replaced the old parts – no modifications/adjustments to anything.
“ “ “ High Performance parts are all available and easily obtained new except for the intake manifold and there are plenty available on E-bay and swap meets to make this a non-issue; especially the dual quads.
The 318 Poly will meet and exceed all your HP & Torque goals without exceeding your budget and easily make 425HP and 450ft.lbs.torque in 360” econo Stroker trim and 350-375HP in HOT stock stroke trim.
NOTE: read Nick Tiberio’s e-mail comments about his 360 Stroker Poly I forwarded to this list and question some Poly builder/owners about the pros & cons of their “built” Polys vs. other options.
You don’t need more than approx. 350-375 REAL HP to reach your goals outlined in your e-mail with your chassis.
HOT Stock Stroke Poly:
OEM pistons with head mill to achieve 9 to 9.5 to one ratio; 10 to 1 can be had as well.
Port & polish the heads – 211cfm intake is enough flow for 425HP and 450ft. lbs. of torque; this with headers/exhaust gives you the most bang for your buck with an aftermarket camshaft and four barrel induction.
Four barrel intake or dual quad
Stock 1.84/1.56” valves OK or upgrade to 1.94/1.60” if budget allows
TTI Headers a must with good 2 1/2” dual exhaust w/H or X pipe through Dynomax Super Turbos or Flowmasters...personal choice here
A 2500-3000rpm high stall convertor is recommended, but not necessary for the first stage of cam profiles but mandatory for the second choice of cam profiles and preferably a 3000-3500rpm convertor
Rear gears will greatly enhance any engine modifications and a minimum of 3.23 gears are requisite for any build past stock if you want to “feel” the value-added to your engine build; 3.23-3.91 for the first step and 3.55-4.10 for the second step recommended.
Electronic Ignition for stock and modified Poly recommended
Engine balancing and unleaded seats are “standard” in all engine builds as far as I am concerned.
360 Stroker Poly:
All the above with the exception of using LA low-compression truck pistons and fly-cutting the pistons for an intake valve relief; choice of 9 to 10 to 1 compression ratio.
Please e-mail me off-list for more information or a list of the parts suppliers, local machine shops, and current prices I have been able to catalog for our “PolyHeads” to make your shopping and engine building easy.
Prices are always changing in the marketplace but I try to do a search for the best part at the lowest price and pass it along to our Mail List people.
Take care,
Gary Pavlovich
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: Just daydreaming...Sleeper ideas?
Drop in a late model 360,,,,,,we all know that a poly can be built, but the parts and availability of the later engines are unmatched,,,,,,,, you will end up with more HP, for less bucks,,,,,
In a message dated 7/15/2011 10:11:13 A.M. Central Daylight Time, fd_colorado@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
Sleeper Build
Just doing a bit of daydreaming here... maybe you guys have some
ideas, how would you spend your money and what kind of times do you
think you'd achieve?
the car:
1963 Plymouth Belvedere 4 dr sedan, 318ci/2bbl, 727 auto, car is
totally original, e.g. 14" wheels etc. No PS, PB or air cond.
Parts budget of $2500 - $5000
some of my thoughts are...
front disc brake conversion
if possible, widen stock rear wheels and install street/drag tire
awhile back Hot Rod did a 318 budget rebuild netting 406hp for ~$1500
bucks
???
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Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. That is, send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune
the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!
1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
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http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
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