Bill,If your carb runs a smooth as you indicate, I wouldn't mess with it. Check your distributor advance and initial/total timing numbers.
Gary----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill" <Y1TopBanana73@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 10:38 AM Subject: Re: Torque Converter / Trans Input Shaft Size
I did not buy the carb new so I don't have a book. It was recently rebuilt by a guy @ local professional shop before I bought it so I don't know if it's exactly box stock or not. The carb is VERY smooth and doesn't stumble one single bit on acceleration or cruising. When you mash it on a hard launch, it just digs and goes (as best it can). I have a carter strip kit @ home for afb/avs that I bought a long time ago...same parts? I'll certainly go get a book and dive into it...do you recommend any particular one? Any suggestions for ignition tuning? I don't remember what any timing settings are right now and would have to check again. -- Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 01 Dakota SLT 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 1:11 PM, Rich Kinsley <rlkinsley@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:I didn't know squat about carb tuning until I put on the dual quads. Then necessity stepped in and I think I'm pretty good with those carbs now. The Eddy's are very easy to tweak. You should have the tuning book that came with the carb if you bought it. Read it and get yourself a tuning kit from Edelbrock. It's in the $50 range I believe. Does your car stagger on a hard launch? A simple thing might to be to set up your accel pump to give you more gas at a throttle blip. Then there are spring changes and jet changes you can do following their chart. It really is easy. Just get brave and jump in there and try it. You can always take it back to the out of box setting easily to correct any mistakes you make. Be sure to remember that you need to have no more than about 6psi of fuel pressure. If you have a macho fuel pump be sure to put a regulator on it. If I can do it, you can do it. Rich Kinsley '64 Dodge Polara 4dr 318poly w/goodies ===================================================================== Bill M wrote:Gary, I certainly want to take any "free" options first...no doubt! Isure the cam is installed @ 0 since I honestly don't remember seeing anything about a 2 deg advance and did not do anything special in the install. That could certainly be fixed pretty easily w/ an offset key...correct? As far as tuning the carb or ignition. I honestly wouldn't know where to start or even what to do. I've never done any of that stuff before, but am willing to learn! Any schooling would be much appreciated! I know my tall tire hurts me a little bit but I may also be getting a set of 3.55's to throw into the mix. --=20 Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 01 Dakota SLT 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrot= e: > > Bill, > > Just my thoughts. > > Your package should have much more bottom end than "no punch," if I > understand your meaning. =C2=A0A 3.23 should pull better on the bottom > en= d with a > 264/.450" ([email protected]") cam (did you set the cam at the recommended two > degrees advanced when you degree'd the cam in?). =C2=A0Yes, a mild > 2500-2= 800rpm > convertor will give you the acceleration I think you are expecting, > howev= er,> I think there can be an improvement in low-end torque with some carb > and> ignition tuning. =C2=A0My Plymouth had about the same softness on the > bot= tom end > with a similar cam and a cast iron dual plane four barrel until I > fine-tu= ned > the carburetor and then it broke the tires loose (slightly) and the > botto= m > end came alive. =C2=A0Try the tuning for free first and then consider > pla= n "B." > > Gary Pavlovich > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill" <Y1TopBanana73@xxxxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 6:58 AM > Subject: Re: Torque Converter / Trans Input Shaft Size > > >>>> OK...where I'm going with this is...after talking w/ a friend of >> mine,>> he thinks my car would get a world of good out of a better convertor.>> Right now it runs EXTREMELY smoothly, but has absolutely no "punch" >> on>> the bottom end, but pulls nicely once the rpm's get up a little. It's >> a basically stock motor w/ Pertronix electronic ignition, a .450 lift >> Schneider cam, factory cast iron dual plane 4 bbl intake, w/ a 625 >> Edelbrock carb, 3.23 SG's, and 275/60/15's. I know it's a tall tire >> without much gear to compensate, and it's only a 318, but it just >> feels like it should have a little more on the bottom.----Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks!1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html.
Back to the Home of the Forward Look Network