${top_text_ad} Gary, I certainly want to take any "free" options first...no doubt! Isure the cam is installed @ 0 since I honestly don't remember seeing anything about a 2 deg advance and did not do anything special in the install. That could certainly be fixed pretty easily w/ an offset key...correct? As far as tuning the carb or ignition. I honestly wouldn't know where to start or even what to do. I've never done any of that stuff before, but am willing to learn! Any schooling would be much appreciated! I know my tall tire hurts me a little bit but I may also be getting a set of 3.55's to throw into the mix. -- Bill M 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 01 Dakota SLT 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3 On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 12:30 PM, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote: > > Bill, > > Just my thoughts. > > Your package should have much more bottom end than "no punch," if I > understand your meaning. A 3.23 should pull better on the bottom end with a > 264/.450" ([email protected]") cam (did you set the cam at the recommended two > degrees advanced when you degree'd the cam in?). Yes, a mild 2500-2800rpm > convertor will give you the acceleration I think you are expecting, however, > I think there can be an improvement in low-end torque with some carb and > ignition tuning. My Plymouth had about the same softness on the bottom end > with a similar cam and a cast iron dual plane four barrel until I fine-tuned > the carburetor and then it broke the tires loose (slightly) and the bottom > end came alive. Try the tuning for free first and then consider plan "B." > > Gary Pavlovich > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill" <Y1TopBanana73@xxxxxxxxx> > To: <1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 6:58 AM > Subject: Re: Torque Converter / Trans Input Shaft Size > > >> >> OK...where I'm going with this is...after talking w/ a friend of mine, >> he thinks my car would get a world of good out of a better convertor. >> Right now it runs EXTREMELY smoothly, but has absolutely no "punch" on >> the bottom end, but pulls nicely once the rpm's get up a little. It's >> a basically stock motor w/ Pertronix electronic ignition, a .450 lift >> Schneider cam, factory cast iron dual plane 4 bbl intake, w/ a 625 >> Edelbrock carb, 3.23 SG's, and 275/60/15's. I know it's a tall tire >> without much gear to compensate, and it's only a 318, but it just >> feels like it should have a little more on the bottom. >> >> I was given a complete 66 813 Poly w/ 727 and am thinking about >> having Dynamic's Frank Lupo do a converter for me and use the one out >> of the 66 trans I have to save some $. >> >> Any thoughts? >> >> -- >> Bill M >> 65 Coronet 500 'vert http://1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo62008.html >> 73 Dart Sport, 00 Cherokee Sport, 01 Dakota SLT >> 21 Model T Depot Hack, 92 Accord, 06 Mazda 3 >> >> On Thu, Mar 18, 2010 at 9:45 AM, Gary H. <spigot2039@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: >>> >>> >>> 19-spline input shaft was used through the 1966 models; the 24-spline >>> input shaft debut was 1967. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Gary H. >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> >>>> What was the last year of the smaller sized input shaft...65, 66, or 67? >>>> >>>> Thanks >>>> >>>> -- >>>> Bill M >>> > ${bottom_text_ad} ---- Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person. I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic. Thanks! 1962 to 1965 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines: http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html and http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/general_disclaimer.html. This email was sent to: ${recipient} u/?bUrDWg.${encoded_sub_id}.${EMC}