Next Time You Have A Water Pump Problem

["Earl H. " <earlh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

If anyone gets caught out with something like this, or water pump seals that
start to 
leak, and you're away from home, here is an easy work around to get you 
back to the barn.

Plug the hole with a piece of wood, or anything you can find, then take the 
radiator cap off, fill it up with water and drive it home slow. No Pressure
- No Leak. 
If you are driving at freeway speeds, you will need to stop every 25 to 50
miles 
to add water, but if you are going slow you can go for quite awhile.

I drove a 440 over 500 miles with leaking seals that way and never hurt a
thing. 
Learned that trick in Mexico years ago.

Earl

-----Original Message-----
From: intiaboats@xxxxxxxx [mailto:intiaboats@xxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, June 15, 2008 4:45 PM
To: 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Poly Stroker dyno test today


You're making me 2nd guess some of my projects. Cut it out!
>From the day I saw my Sport Fury on Ebay, I was prepared to swap in a big
block. Because I began messing with cars in my teens - when I had a lot of
ambition & very little money - putting in a big block meant building a big
block. As I stand at the midway point of my 426wedge build, with a zillion
parts & calculations staring me in the face, still trying to make a decision
on connecting rods, I wonder why I placed myself in this mess(sound
familiar, people?).

So, I hop into my polyFury & crank it up. Ten miles down the highway, the
temperature needle is jumping. I pull into the nearest gas station, pop open
the hood & watch the steam pour out. What a depressing smell! Then I see
something I've never seen; a hole in the top of the water pump housing. It
looks like someone struck an arc, then drove a welding rod through the
casing. Perfect.

Longer story shortened, I towed the car to my shop believing that the next
time I drive it, it'll be with the 426w. Then, you publish those dyno
numbers. Not just respectable numbers, mind you, @#$%^ awesome performance!
Anybody else living my life, right now? LMAO
Well done, Gary! 
Mike


--- On Fri, 6/13/08, Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: Gary Pavlovich <glpavlovich@xxxxxxx>
> Subject: Poly Stroker dyno test today
> To: 318poly@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, 1962to1965mopars@xxxxxxxxxx
> Received: Friday, June 13, 2008, 10:51 PM
> Just thought I would let the group know about the latest
> Poly Stroker (actually 396 cid) with my favorite 4"
> crank that I built and dyno'd for a customer today.
> 
> I used a "small cam" and experimented with two
> radically different carbs after the engine break-in. The
> results surprised me so I thought some of you would find it
> interesting; parameters are as follows.
> 
> My customer has a '66 Charger with high rear end gears
> (numerically low), 727 automatic, and wanted a mid-level
> Stroker build more for cruising & reliability than
> perfomance.  He wanted a mild idle, cast iron dual plane
> Poly intake, and all power in before 5000rpm (remember its
> a street cruiser).
> 
> We made 441Torque @ 3500rpm 
>                   357HP       @ 5000rpm
> 
> with a 750 double-pumper Holley on a stock OEM cast iron
> Poly intake w/ four-hole adapter and 224@.050" lift
> Hydraulic cam (280/.480" advertised).
> 
> Next pull with my "experiment" carb netted 
>                       440Torque @ 3500rpm
>                       357HP        @ 5100rpm
> 
> with my 500cfm Edelbrock AFB; one of the two dual quad
> carbs destined for my next Poly Stroker build.
> 
> The Poly achieved 98.6% volumetric efficiency and used
> 501cfm with the Edelbrock carb and achieved 99.8%
> volumetric efficiency and used 497cfm with the 750Holley
> double-pumper carb.
> 
> Air/Fuel ratio on each carb was perfect and near identical.
> 
> I was surprised to see how well the small 500cfm Edelbrock
> did on a near 400cubic inch motor. The butterfly
> shaft/choke and "stuff" was removed from the
> Edelbrock for improved flow.
> 
> Now mind you, this is just an engine dyno and the smaller
> carb would probably react differently on the street.
> 
> FYI,
> Gary Pavlovich
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ----
> Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one
> person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car
> transactions and negotiations as well as other personal
> messages only to the intended recipient, not to the
> Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your
> privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the
> content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!
> 
> '62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
> http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 


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----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person --
directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations
as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to
the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy,
reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar
topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html. 


----
Please address private mail -- mail of interest to only one person -- directly to that person.  I.e., send parts/car transactions and negotiations as well as other personal messages only to the intended recipient, not to the Clubhouse public address. This practice will protect your privacy, reduce the total volume of mail and fine tune the content signal to Mopar topic.  Thanks!

'62 to '65 Mopar Clubhouse Discussion Guidelines:
http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.org/mletiq.html.