Just wanted to add, The existing mechanical pump stays in place and pulls through the priming pump once started.
Agree with Danny, I’ve had one on my G for at least 15 years that I got from John Lazenby, and a different style before it. They really are necessary if the car sits for more than a week due to gas evaporation. Install with a push button switch. Turn the key on, push button until pulsations slow, then crank over. Simple, effective, no cranking, cranking, cranking. As John G mentioned, some folks think the cranking helps pump oil before firing and beneficial. Personally, I don’t agree, unnecessary wear on the battery and starter. Besides, if you did want to crank it without priming, you’d still have that option, just don’t push the button. As far as opening the hood, unscrewing the air cleaner, pouring gas in the carb…what a pain, and a bit dangerous.
You want a Facet cube pump. Its a little cube, pumps 1.5 psi and perfect for priming. John Lazenby installed one on my F when he owned it.
The Facet will pump through the mechanical pump. I run it until she starts and then turn it off. Google a Facet 1.5 psi and it will pop right up.
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
-------- Original message --------
Date: 10/24/24 8:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
Subject: {Chrysler 300} Electrical fuel pump
The electrical fuel pump on my 61G gave way and started leaking. This pump was installed prior to my purchasing the car. I only turn it on for about 20 sec. prior to starting the car and then turn it off.
Question.....Is this something really necessary (I did replace the mechanical pump about a year ago)? If so, what would be a good replacement and what would the required GPM and PSI (there is no notation on the pump to go by.)
See attached for what was installed by a previous owner.
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